Automatic Clutch

These seem to be very reliable with few faults reported, however more problems are popping up now as the cars age

 See here for information on the manual clutch 
 See here for information on the 2-tronic clutch actuator 

The clutch in the auto is mechanically operated by an electrical actuator, and no hydraulics are involved

Clutch judder on take-off

If otherwise in good condition, clutch judder on take-off can be improved by slowly pulling away in second (on the flat), once or twice.  This rubs off any irregularities on the friction plate and improves smoothness for a while.

If you have clutch judder it will only get worse UNLESS you do something about it.  The cause is the low first gear (has to be for the hills around here!).  It can also be caused by weak engine mounts and play in the drivetrain - but try the solution above first.

The newish clutch on my manual 1.4 is very sweet with no sign of judder - so the design is OK!

Initial position of clutch actuator

with the ignition off, the clutch should be engaged - the clutch actuator pushrod is shorter

with the ignition on, the clutch should be disengaged - the clutch actuator pushrod is pushed outwards

with the engine running, the clutch should be disengaged - the clutch actuator is pushed outwards.  (same as ignition on and whether it is in gear or not)

Neil Gibson tells us that: Most breakdown technicians in yellow vans (AA) carry the software to reset the adaption parameters for your clutch providing it's within limits.

The clutch actuator is fastened with 3 hex screws to a frame with slots in the mounting.  Generally speaking a new clutch should have the actuator mounted as far down the slots as it will go.  Worn clutches should be mounted nearer the start of the slots.

If the clutch is where the ecu expects it to be gear changes will be smoother and faster.

and another similar thread: Neil Gibson: worn out clutch? Pay £50 (in 2011) for a clutch kit off eBay.  Clutch actuator change is NOT needed.  Electronic configuration is not needed.  Make no mistake this is no more difficult than a standard clutch change.  Don't be put off.

Providing it's within parameters (basically there is free play when the actuator is at rest so it doesn't "ride" the clutch) the adjustment is automatic.  I haven't once had to realign readjust reconfigure reinitialise reset anything.  People get so mesmerised by the electronics they stop using their common sense.  You don't need an ecu to tell you all is well.  Just drive it and make up your own mind.

EDITORS NOTE: WHILST IT IS OFF THE CAR, I BELIEVE IT IS IMPORTANT TO RESET THE AUTO-ADJUSTER INSIDE THE CLUTCH ACTUATOR. THEN SET UP SO THERE IS A LITTLE FREE PLAY WHEN THE ACTUATOR IS AT REST. AFTER A FEW OPERATIONS, THE AUTO-ADJUSTER WILL TAKE UP ANY PLAY.

when replacing the clutch see this debate  here 

Slipping clutch

Apart from wear, another cause of clutch slip could be oil on the clutch plate from a leaking gearbox seal.

This might be caused by a worn input shaft bearing (mainly found on diesels at around 70,000 miles; petrols seem to last) and/or failure of the gearbox oil seal

The bearing is internal and needs a gearbox strip down to replace it.  The seal is external and includes the release bearing guide.  It is often changed at the same time as the clutch.  Check for lateral play on the input shaft before committing to opening the box up.  Worn bearings usually sound a bit noisy and allow the shaft to spin off centre to the seal causing a leak.  Or the seal has just failed.

Practical information taken from the  Eurocarcare site 

Some thoughts on Clutches & Actuators by our resident Guru Stu - Dispelling a few myths about piloted manual gearboxes, or senso-drive transmission of Citroen C2 & C3. (and our Peugeot 1007's)

Thinking back a few years, I had heard a few nightmare stories about auto gearboxes fitted to the new small Citroens, firstly it was tales of having to replace the gearbox, along with the clutch actuator and gearbox ecu, and its still got the same problem (the nature of which was never very clear).

We then started seeing a few actual clutch actuator failures, although they were not always attached to the car - they were brought to us by other garages who had replaced clutches or had recovered broken down cars and removed the clutch actuator as a possible reason for the car getting stuck in gear or impossible to engage a gear.

We stripped down these actuators and found the mechanical adjuster inside the actuator had broken, these adjusters were repaired where possible and fitted back to the car.  I have seen only one clutch actuator which had an electrical fault and this had a burnt out electric motor (which can be separated from the actuator), which we replaced from another failed actuator, and one case of input shaft bearing failure of the gearbox.

Fast forward to today - how do we approach suspect problems with senso-drive gearboxes? Well, in at least 90% of cases, the symptoms are caused by a worn out clutch.  It is quite surprising how the life of the clutch plate can vary so greatly, we find worn out clutches at as little as 30,000 miles and I feel that an average clutch will last between 50,000 and 80,000 miles.  Experience has taught us that interrogation of the customer and listening to the description of their symptoms is the best way to diagnose gearbox problems.  It has also taught us that there is no temporary or cheap cure.