Manual Clutch

These seem to be very reliable with few faults reported, however more problems are popping up now as the cars age

 Information on the 2-tronic clutch 

Clutches seem to last between 50,000 and 80,000 miles; failure is usually indicated by slipping. This is caused either by the clutch plate becoming worn out (expensive) or the hydraulics leaking.

Clutch judder on take-off

If otherwise in good condition, clutch judder on take-off can be improved by slowly pulling away in second (on the flat), once or twice. This rubs off any irregularities on the friction plate and improves smoothness for a while.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder: information and pictures provided by Paul Swift

Paul says his car is an 1.4 Hdi sport manual in Salamanca Orange (metallic gold) and it is an easy job compared to some. Took about 30 minutes and £24 for new part from Eurocarparts.

Notes:

With front of car up on ramps, remove the undertray (diesels only; not fitted to petrol cars) and open bonnet

The view up behind the front valance shows the leaking slave cylinder with one mounting bolt undone a couple of turns.

remove the two mounting bolts to release the slave cylinder, watching out for escaped clutch fluid collected in the concertina rubber cover. The cylinder should now be hanging on the fluid hose.

old (lower) and new (upper) slave cylinders

Unpack the new cylinder and remove the blanking plug

The fluid hose is held in place by two things, a metal clip which can be eased off with a small flat point screwdriver (there was a new clip with the new cylinder), and an interlock mechanism on the plastic push-fit end on the hose. Orientate correctly and squeeze the sides to release. Note that fluid will escape so promptly block with finger.

Discard old cylinder, and grab new one. Remove metal clip then insert hose into hole that had blanking plug and squeeze sides until it slots home. Push on metal clip to lock hose into place

Top up brake fluid and replace cap. Open bleed nipple on new cylinder after removing rubber cover if it has one. Move clutch pedal up and down in coordination with opening/ closing bleed nipple until fluid comes through then tighten bleed nipple and replace rubber cap.

Now is the time to clean up around the area

Offer up new cylinder to mounting position ensuring piston rod end engages with cup on actuator arm, insert and tighten the two mounting bolts

(if fitted) clean and refit under tray

Move off the ramps onto level surface and top up brake fluid to correct level