Not Working - First Steps
The sliding doors sometimes get a bad press - simply because they are different. But remember that 90% of problems are due to the in-door actuator; another 5% are due to the B-post actuator; another 4% are due to dirty contacts at the front edge of the doors leaving just 1% for other faults.
Try to avoid forcing the doors manually as it COULD stretch the cables and MIGHT cause the slack to jam on the motor drum or over-rev the drive motor. Should the electrics fail, just use sufficient force to get the door moving; no more. This includes garage mechanics!
Door not working - first steps
It is assumed you have already tried a door reset (also in your Owners Manual and the Familiarisation sheet if still with the car)
Most door problems are due to the in-door actuator so, as a first step, change this actuator (you will have to at some time anyway). After 8 years or so they gum up and slow down anyway as the special grease only has a shelf life of five years!
They can sound like they are working OK - but are too slow to hit the short time window in the software.
Yves has posted an excellent Youtube demo of worn and new actuators here.
Be aware that, as soon as the actuator fails, the door computer is put into failsafe mode and will not operate any more electrically - even after a reset you will still get the three bleeps.
After changing this actuator (around £50 on ebay) : if it still doesn't work then:
- the two 40amp fuses in the passenger glove box shown here are for the sliding door main motors, one for each door. Make sure they aren't blown and also that they are in the right positions.
- check all the front-of-door contacts are shiny clean - use only fine sandpaper to clean; don't lubricate.
- a few are now finding that the connectors on the BACKS of the front-of-door contacts are now giving trouble with slight corrosion of the plugs/sockets. One small screw and they will come out; though it may need helping by a flat blade screwdriver behind the contact assembly to pull it out while unscrewing. It doesn’t screw into anything on the body, rather it moves the jaws apart on a plastic rivet. Probably just need some switch contact spray to sort them.
- check that the microswitch under the back of the door clicks (they rarely fail though the plastic operating lever ("headlamp cover" part # 9137F1) can break. Also check the spring loaded lever on the lower door runner does actually operate this switch as these can be sticky
- check that the outside door handle is free to return to the forward position under internal spring pressure (the pivots can seize and inhibit the door catch mechanism)
- passenger (left-hand) door - check the fuel filler flap switch is working (connector under inspection hatch below rear nearside seat) - these occasionally fail - just short it out in the short-term.
- if still not working, try a BSI reset
- if still not working, try a battery reset
- less likely but an ABS problem can result in the doors failing to open. As the door control module won't allow operation above 3 mph, no speed reading means no door opening.
- if still not working then work down all the menu items here
If your car won't start or the doors won't work even after a reset, try removing the link HS (or SH) in the BSI for 15 minutes and then replace it. This may also reset some of the preferences but should at least get you going!
Measured at the 40amp fuses in the glovebox fusebox - door operating currents can be up to 25amps (sliding uphill) or as low as 2 amps (sliding downhill)
Mine are around 12-15amps opening uphill on my drive; 2-3amps when closing downhill
If you buy a PP2000 kit off ebay, it will come with the necessary cables to connect to the OBD port in the glove locker fusebox. It may give you a guide to the location of the fault. Although I have PP2000 myself, I've not needed it yet and it tends to be more time consuming (on my lap top anyway) than going through the above steps!
Good luck - the 1007 doors are actually quite simple!
