Should we fit HID bulb kits to our 1007's ?

Please see   here   for the latest MOT test requirements.  It says:

"Vehicles equipped with High Intensity Discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with headlamp washers and a suspension or headlamp self levelling system.

Where such systems are fitted, they must work; however, it is accepted that it may not be possible to readily determine the functioning of self levelling systems. In such cases, the benefit of the doubt must be given."

Note: It says they MAY be fitted - not MUST be fitted . . . . so OK for the MOT

however, this is only one aspect and the legality of the HID bulbs is also a consideration:

"In the Department of Transport's view (2006) it is not legal to sell or use after market HID lighting kits, for converting conventional Halogen headlamps to HID Xenon. If a customer wants to convert his vehicle to Xenon HID he must purchase completely new Xenon HID headlamps. The reason for this is that the existing lens and reflector are designed around a Halogen filament bulb, working to very precise tolerances. If one places a HID "burner" (bulb) in the headlamp, the beam pattern will not be correct, there will be glare in some places and not enough light in other places within the beam pattern."

- also see the Department for Transport 2010 update   here  

if it's not legal then it could be that adding an HID kit may void your insurance and any warranty you have on the vehicle.

so maybe this is a good reason not to fit HID bulbs?

Headlight wiring

nothing is simple these days - this annotated drawing shows only the wiring for the headlights!

they are fed from the Systems Interface board (BSI) in the glovebox.

Dip beams failed

Could be both dip filaments burnt out - that would be the most likely. Each dip filament is fed by an individual fuse  see here  but it would be very unlikely they would both blow.

Another possibility would be a faulty column switch - but check the bulbs first.

Living in a country area, I am always amazed at how many cars creep about with only one headlight working - only needs the other to fail and they will be plunged into darkness!

The reason is quite often the auto-headlights circuit which bring the headlights on as it gets darker. We've all seen them - headlights blazing on a dull afternoon - without realising that the highly stressed bulbs have a limited burn life and are certain to fail prematurely. Moral - switch off the auto-headlights!

Changing front light bulbs

access to the rear of the headlight units looks good after taking off the rubber covers.

BUT the headlight bulbs are well inset; they are held in place by thin springy wire and can require some care and patience to replace.

Press on the wire where shown and slide it sideways - the spring wire is hinged at the bottom so pull it back to release the bulb. Use a mirror to see what you are doing in there!

I use Osram Night Breaker Plus H4 bulbs which seem to last well; others prefer Philips.

The orange indicator lights are easy but you will need a torch and some patience to unclip and pull out the sidelight bulbs.

Crazed or Milky Headlight

If your headlights look like this, the UV protection has been washed off after repeated washing and the lens attacked by UV from the sun. I have seen many worse but even these had a poor diffused light output and are potential MOT failures.

First reaction may be to replace the headlight, but there is no need to do so as the milkiness can be polished out

They can be carefully polished out starting with 800 grit wet & dry emery paper - you have to be brave; it will work if you are patient.

You can use an electric drill, but be careful not to overheat the plastic. I did mine by hand; the headlamps are at convenient height when sitting on a chair on a fine day!

Good "how-to" video on this page  Auto-glym Headlight Restore  - there are many others on the market.

I carefully worked down using ever-finer grades to finish with 7,000 grit wet & dry (with plenty of water and a drop of washing up liquid). Change the water between each grade; you won't want any coarser grit getting back onto the soft plastic.

. . . and then a good polish up - I used Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner Á Polish which takes out the last of the fogging from the 7,000 grit paper very well.

. . . and finally a double application of anti-UV polish.  I use this  which seems to work well.

Various kits suggest using an electric drill, but I found that hand rubbing and patience were better controlled.  The end results look as good as new.

OR - you could change the headlight (not a simple undertaking)

The workshop CD's suggest extensive dismantling of the front end.

However Yves suggests that "You only need to take 2 parts off as far as I remember: 4 torx screws under the bonnet, then the thing with the Peugeot logo comes off, and then 2 more torx screws and 4 torx bolts and you should have enough access to take the headlight off."

Changing the Spotlights   - info: Mary Parker; photo: Sami Sundelin

I have fitted LED sidelights at the front. They are much brighter and easier to see especially as the light fades.  I fitted Osram w5w led warm  at the front. Not changed any others though; as they seem perfectly adequate.

Sidelight wiring

the Systems Interface (BSI) is a wonder in itself - I'll leave the reader to work out what does (or should do) what.

Rear Lights

One or two reversing lights have failed - if not the bulb then this has been traced to the switch on the gearbox.

I have also fitted a  warning reversing bulb  to give audible warning of reversing.

The rear light assemblies are removed via access panels inside the boot.  Two special nuts hold the assembly in place: if tight, they can be started with the wheel nut spanner (really!).  I have also fitted an aftermarket rear proximity warning alarm.

Remove both nuts (don't drop them) and the whole of the rear light assembly can be slid out.  Unplug the connector (lock is on the side and quite stiff) and give it a light spray of Servisol contact cleaner/lubricant.

Check the gasket - should look like new - make certain it is replaced in the same position or water will get in.

This is the nearside rear light assembly off the car and with the bulbs removed.

The 6-way connector socket is on the back.  Apparently this socket can occasionally give problems due to an overloaded earth pin - mine was fine, but given a spray of Servisol in case.

The three lamps (other side is the same but with the rear fog light in place of the reversing light) are on a sub-board which simply clips into the back of the light structure.

Replaced the side/brakelight 5/21 watt which was beginning to turn black and Servisol on all the contacts which looked as good as new.

NOTE: it is possible for the rear light assemblies to not quite click into the right place when being replaced. The displacement is quite small but can lead to a slight knocking noise from the tailgate. Please don't ask me how I know this.