Heater Fan Control

The digital control panel on some 1007's is controlled via a small probe mounted in the dashboard behind the small vent.  A small fan inside sucks a sample of the air from the cabin to maintain a steady temperature in the car.

The small fan inside the probe can start to sqeak.  Remove as a unit from behind the dashboard after removing the glove locker.  Clean and use thin oil on the bearings and reassemble

This is the little unit with a centrifugal fan to suck air in over the thermistor which controls the heating.
Peugeot part number for the temperature probe is 6445HT

Showing the thermistor that senses the temperature of the airflow over it.

The parts inside.  You could leave the thermistor in situ as the motor will slide in and out without removing it.  Since the motor is not positively retained, you can gently push it out with a screwdriver from the fan end.  Easing the rubber lobes out of the slots will reduce the likelihood of damage.

It is a brushless motor, so you can't just stick 12V across it to make it spin.  It's like a stepper motor and needs signals driving the two coils out of phase.

Photos and commentary by PAul Maskens

Climate Control

Cars with auto air conditioning unit (climate control) may find that, whatever the settings are, the fan is always on (sometimes always off) irrespective of the fan setting.   This can be cured by replacing the failed fan control unit that sits in the side of the heater.

To replace the fan motor control unit takes about 10 mins (in theory).  The only tool needed is a T20 torx screwdriver.

Remove the right-hand covering panel (drivers side on right-hand drive cars)

Cost of unit from Peugeot £130, off ebay £20.  The unit is on the drivers side slotted into the side of the heater

Remove the fan control unit

The actual control is via a high power FET (probably pulse width modulated).

The FET can fail either open-circuit or short-circuit - but reflow the solder connections on the other side of the board first just in case

I changed my heater controller as the original went open circuit so no fan (odd that the known faulty spare I had was short circuit so full fan).

Job seems quite straightforward except that the plug/sockets are in VERY tight and the new cheapo Chinese sockets needed a little chamfering to get the plugs in as they are such a tight fit

.  .  .  and refitting the little cover panel is an art in itself - took me much longer than the allotted ten minutes!

but a satisfactory outcome .  .  .  eventually