Peugeot 1.4 Engine
1360cc

Peugeot say that UK vehicles should do 20,000 miles between services; in fact it should be 20,000km and they simply didn't change the software for the UK. This can be corrected via PP2000 to get a true miles readout.  Yes, I know it says a tiny "miles" on your screen; they changed that but not the 20,000 - so the countdown SHOULD have started at 12,500 or thereabouts.  This is the reason for the ridiculous 40,000 miles expected of the spark plugs - and probably the cause of many failures to start or run properly. Changing plugs at 25,000 miles would have been far more realistic!

 see here for Lambda O2 sensors 

 see here for Auxiliary Belt and Cam Belt change 

 see here for Gearbox lubrication  

Engine Sensors

Drawing showing how all the sensors feed information into the ECU

Crank Position Sensor (there is no Cam Position Sensor on these cars)

Part number 1920AW - is common to many Peugeot engines and bolted to the top of the gearbox bell housing.

Appears to be very reliable but a failing one might cause intermittent or difficult starting

Erratic starting and/or loss of power; engine light (MIL or EML) lit:

Can be caused by the MAP sensor (Manifold Air Pressure) also known as the MAF (Mass Air Sensor) on the black plastic intake manifold just above the injectors with a clip on brown plug. The connector can also cause problems so check first before changing the sensor.

The MAP/MAF has a dual function as it measures both the airflow (heated wire) AND the temperature of the air (thermistor) entering the engine.

The remedy for intermittent operation is to carefully close (they break easily) and spray electrical cleaning fluid on the contacts.   Plug back in and run the engine until hot or over 85°C - switch off and restart the engine four times.  After the fourth time the engine light should clear.

Sudden loss of power - limp home mode:
Misfire due to worn plugs:

As a result of Peugeot having extended plug change intervals to 40,000 miles, the 1.6 engine misfired big time at 32,000 miles and had to limp home.   At almost 20,000 miles it was time to change the plugs on the 1.4 engine.

The plugs on the 8-valve engines are nearest the bulkhead and fiddly to access as they are well down in the block and access is limited.

First unclip (push the yellow part inwards to disengage) the breather hoses; then unclip most of the wiring and connectors on top of the engine.

Remove the small bracket holding the vacuum unit and then the two long studs holding the coil pack. Lift off the coil pack and manoeuvre it out; it should come fairly easily

Note that the connections to the plugs are sprung loaded; and press (not push on) the end of the plug.

The plugs on the 8-valve engines are well down in the block and access is limited.

To pull the plugs out, there is a tight-fitting insert inside the plug spanner - problem is - how to get it out in the restricted space?

Using a short locking ⅜" extension, it was possible to use a cranked pair of pliers to lever the spanner assembly up -

 - #3 cylinder is even more difficult as a stepper motor gets in the way.  The plug spanner/short locking extension will just come out if angled and jiggled behind the stepper motor assembly.

Once removed, it was found that ALL plugs (Bosch Super FR7DE) were worn and gaps were around the 40thou mark (should be 30thou). I found the same on the yellow car -  at 78,500  miles and if it had a service at 40,000 then plugs will have done 38,500 - all were out to 41thou.

The new plugs are NGK Iridium types BKR6EIX gapped to 30thou.  These are supposed to last at least 50,000 miles so should see me and the car out!

NGK say: A traditional IX iridium plug such as NGK ZFR6FIX-11 has an iridium Centre Electrode, however the ground electrode is a traditional nickel construction. Therefore, the ground electrode will wear out first. NGK gives them a life expectancy of 40-50k miles. But they have to temper their projections as driving conditions and motor modifications differ. Typically we have found you can expect 60,000 to 80,000 miles on an unaltered motor.

And all clipped back together very easily - replace the wiring before the vacuum pipes . . .  how do I know this?

Plugs were changed in 2011 and the engine has since behaved faultlessly

Changing the Oil filter: (pictures from 1.6 engine)

This is a fairly straightforward task once you appreciate that you will need a large socket spanner to fit on the head of the filter canister.

Lift the bonnet; the filter is inside the black canister down low between the front panel and the engine just to the right of the exhaust manifold. Needs a large socket (27mm) to undo the top nut - then the cover comes off and the filter is inside; my filter came out with the cover. Clean the cover and fit new sealing ring.

Drop the new filter in - replace the cover - don't overtighten!

Don't forget to replace the sump plug washer as it has a special rubber sealing ring to prevent drips

Make sure the engine has the fresh oil in. It takes 3 litres of 5W/40 fully synthetic oil, never cheap oil.   Or only 2.75 litres if the filter isn't changed at the same time.

I use Halfords 5W/40 fully synthetic myself - the Service Book says to use Total 5W/40 fully synthetic but I doubt there is any difference. I change mine (and the filter) about every 10,000 miles; I reckon 20,000 is too far to go even on synthetic.

Start the engine; don't rev until the light goes out (about two seconds). Stop the engine and recheck the level as some will have gone into the filter.

Check underneath for any drips - if none then job done!

In case the oil warning light comes on - after checking the oil level, the oil pressure sensor appears to be underneath the oil filter housing, facing forward - part no 1131C5

Changing the Air filter: (pictures from 1.6 engine)

This is a fairly straightforward task once you appreciate that the assembly comes out in one piece and then has to be taken apart to fit the filter.

Disconnect the air supply and delivery pipes:

Remove 5 cross-point headed screws and replace filter.

The new air filter is much cleaner than the old one was - it had probably done 20,000 miles from new as Peugeot only expect to change them every 40,000 miles.

I have now fitted a direct fit K&N panel air filter eg ebay  K&N air filter Peugeot 1007 

Details of servicing K&N Filters  here 

Resetting the Service Indicator

hold in the tripmeter reset button and then turn ignition on and keep it holding in for at least 15 seconds

Valve Clearances

For the 8 valve 1007 Dolce: (which is the same engine as the 207 1.4)

Adjust the valve clearances:

Inlet clearance: 0.20 ± 0.05 (mm)
Exhaust clearance: 0.40 ± 0.05 (mm)

With exhaust valve fully open    Inlet     Exhaust
                   1                               3             4
                   3                               4             2
                   4                               2             1
                   2                               1             3

Tightening of the lock nuts:
Diameter M9 = 1.75 daNm
Diameter M6 = 0.9 daNm

I can't find any recommended intervals for adjustment

Anti-Freeze

I lost some of the water/antifreeze when I replaced the thermostat and replaced it by soft water from the tap. When I checked the (original) antifreeze was green in colour; the top-up I got from the Peugeot dealer was red so I didn't use it. When I checked I still had about 40% green antifreeze so should be OK for where I live in the UK.

However I found this statement on  this website 

Toyota uses a red antifreeze in many of its products and should not be confused with the orange type long life antifreezes. It is essentially the green type of antifreeze that contains red dye to give it the red colour.

The Peugeot Stores operative confirmed this was correct and to top up with the red as supplied.