- First - ensure the car is chocked so it can't move with the handbrake off. You will need to release or remove the brake lever several times as you adjust the fit of the new cover.
- Now clear away remains (if any!) of the old gearbox cover and see what hardware you already have. The original cover was secured by six screws, three each side, which held the cover down to the wooden footboards. In addition, the cover is sandwiched between a half moon plate held by two 3/16" BSF screws into threaded holes in a metal cover on the footboard. Maybe also it will have been sandwiched by the small clutch bell housing inspection plate, see drawing.
- At the rear the cover was originally sandwiched by a curved strip and a further two 3/16" BSF screws into threaded holes in the prop shaft tunnel.
- This is a good time to open the small inspection hatch on the clutch housing and lubricate the clutch thrust bearing on earlier models (service manual says "oil monthly") - or maybe check the ignition timing?
- Unscrew the ring that holds the gear lever in place and remove the gear lever - do not lose the locating peg which can slide out of the bottom of the gear lever.
- Remove the hand brake release lever from the handbrake by undoing two screws at the top of the lever. This makes the job of sliding the gear box cover over the hand brake a lot easier.
- When you receive the new cover, you will need to drill 10 small holes and maybe create a slot for the handbrake lever. If you have purchased the cover without the handbrake slot you need to make one about ½" wide by 1½" long. If there is a bit of slack in your braking system the length of the slot may need to be extended to about 2¼" and also to ¾" wide if you have a gaiter around the handbrake.
- Carefully slide the new gearbox cover over the hand brake lever so the hole for the gearlever tower and the handbrake slot line up. The front of the cover should now set centrally and just below the curved step in the metal cover on the footboard. The indentations are in about the right place for the two threaded holes but poke a small drill or pointed tool through first to make sure they line up with the threaded holes - and then open them up to accept the 3/16" BSF screws and half moon plate.
- Now make six holes in the cover and temporarily screw the cover to the footboards - use washers to spread the load.
- The rear of the new cover was originally held onto the prop shaft tunnel by a curved plate but as the new cover overlaps the prop shaft tunnel by a good amount you may feel this unnecessary. If you still have the original curved plate then, as at the front, line the holes up before opening up to accept the 3/16" BSF screws.
- If required a hole can be made in the new cover for the small inspection hatch on the clutch housing. This is how it was done originally, see drawing, for access to the clutch thrust bearing oiler. You can make a template out of card to ensure you get the holes in the right place.
- Everything lined up? Now remove the screws and lift up the cover. Refit the gear lever (watch that locating peg!) through the cover from underneath the cover and screw the lever back in place on the gearbox tower. Replace all the screws and you have a smart original-looking gearbox cover.
- Note: this is only a guide on how to fit the cover - you may find a better method of doing it!
